Finding a balance between structure and sentiment: A review of ORB Couture’s new collection

Preye Campbell

ORB Couture has unveiled its latest capsule collection, Grace.

Designed by Ololade Rofiat Busari who is a product designer, illustrator, and trained pattern maker, the collection draws from her technical background.

Ololade’s background in illustration is evident in how the garments speak in curves, angles, and subtle asymmetries.

This is particularly apparent in the red bodycon midi dress which serves as a structural study in balance.

The red dress uses princess seam equivalents disguised as dart-manipulated style lines, curving gently into the hip – a mark of advanced flat pattern manipulation. The asymmetrical ruffle detailing, while visually striking, introduces just enough dynamism to balance the minimalism of the design.

However, its execution could benefit from better interfacing, as the ruffles appear soft-structured, and at certain turns, risk appearing collapsed or inconsistent.

The white dress, on the other hand, is a clear nod to free-form elegance. Rendered in a fluid, lightweight silk crepe, it captures motion, light, and air. It is in this piece that Ololade’s product design thinking is evident. The garment considers the body in movement.

The weight distribution, particularly where flare panels are joined to the skirt body, suggests careful consideration of load and drape.

However, the bust construction presents a challenge: while the ruching adds texture, it reveals tension imbalances when viewed at the side, suggesting the need for power mesh lining as supportive internal structuring to accommodate varied bust sizes without compromising shape.

The collection’s construction, broadly speaking, shows promise but lacks the finish expected at the higher end of ready-to-wear. Seam allowances are standard and adequate, but a closer inspection reveals inconsistent seam tension, particularly along side seams and flare joints. The choice of concealed zippers as closures is suitable for the clean outlook of the clothes.

The red dress targets the confident woman who aims to be assertive in her fashion sense, making it an occasion piece for professional settings. The white dress, by contrast, comes through with the romantic vibe that places importance on ease and expression. From a commercial standpoint, consistency in branding elements like care labels and size tags is critical.

One recognises the immense potential in Ololade’s design approach: there is an intelligent hand behind these clothes.

What is needed now is continued evolution in refining structure beneath beauty and expanding the wearer’s experience beyond form into function.

Ultimately, Grace contributes meaningfully to Ololade’s work trajectory by anchoring her design identity in calculated restraint and feminine understanding.

With deliberate refinement in execution and fit calibration, ORB Couture could move from emerging label to established name in the African fashion circuit.